4. For Convenience

There is an undeniable convenience factor you’ll discover when riding a bike. Front row parking spaces are guaranteed no matter where you go. Traffic jams are also irrelevant.

Though cars will certainly make better time on long trips, you’ll find for many short trips or through heavy traffic, you can travel just as fast or faster on your bike.

Have you ever been to a massive festival or concert in a park somewhere, the type of event that draws so many people that just getting there is a problem? Going in on a bike is a perfect solution. Zip in, zip out. You don’t have to get there hours early to get a parking spot or else face parking miles away from the event. And you won’t have to wait hours in traffic to get out once it’s over.

5. For Your Pocketbook

It costs between 20 and 30 cents per mile to operate a car, depending on the vehicle.

When you start multiplying cost per mile to operate a car by the distance you ride, you can easily calculate how much money you save by riding a bike.

For example: my daily roundtrip commute is 16 miles. If I do that just twice a week, I will save over $400 in operating costs alone in the course of a year. (16 miles x 2 trips per week x 52 weeks x .25 cents per mile.)

And if you would otherwise have to pay for parking, tolls, and the like, don’t forget to factor that in too. It can add up quickly.

Ride For You

When you ride your bike, you are doing a lot of good things, many of which are for the benefit of others. But ultimately, the one who benefits the most is you, through better health, peace of mind, increased confidence and self-reliance, heck, even through a fatter bank account.

So for all these reasons, get out there on your bike today. Even if you don’t save the world in the process, you’ll still have fun trying!

Buying the Right Bike for You

While buying a bike is not on the same level of commitment as, say, getting married, it is still a decision that warrants some thought. And, especially if you are considering buying a bike for the first time, it can seem as if your options are nearly endless. "What is the right kind of bike for me? How much should I spend?"

If these are questions you are facing, take heart, because we’re here to help you make a good decision.

What is the Right Kind of Bike for Me?

Your first decision comes in determining what type of bike you are after. There are basically four main styles of bikes to choose from, and your selection should really depend on what you anticipate your main type of riding to be.

Road Bikes are designed for riding on paved streets and going fast.

Featuring skinny tires, a lightweight frame and a riding position that puts you bent over the handlebars, you might choose this type of bike if traveling longer distances at higher speeds is important to you.

The frames of most road bikes are not particularly beefy in construction and generally won’t stand up well for extended periods under heavy loads or on really rough surfaces. They are about as well-suited for a path in the woods as you would be when wearing high heels.

• All About Road Bikes

Mountain Bikes have exploded in popularity over the past twenty years. These bikes have wide tires, usually with knobby treads and a stout frame, and are designed to handle the rugged trails without disintegrating.

Mountain bikes do not go as fast as road bikes, which is a trade-off for their durability along with a more comfortable riding position. You sit higher on these bikes, more upright with the straight handlebars, which is often a happier choice for people with back problems than being hunched over as you are on a road bike.

Warning: sometimes mountain bikes are the default choice of salespeople at the bike shop because they are easy to sell and usually less expensive than road bikes. Too many times though, new mountain bikes with lots of impressive features for climbing a steep mountain trail end up like those four-wheel drive SUVs that never actually go off the pavement. If you are going to buy a mountain bike, make sure you are doing so intentionally because you know that you will in fact be riding off-road. Otherwise, you will be paying for unnecessary features, and probably missing out on a bike that would be a better choice for you.

• All about mountain bikes

Hybrid bikes are compromise between road and mountain bikes and offer the best features of both if most of your riding will be shorter trips on pavement. With skinnier, smooth tires, they typically can go faster than mountain bikes, yet feature the upright seat and handlebar position that many people favor.

Hybrids are a good choice for most city riding, and offer speed, durability and comfort.

Cruisers are bikes that have wide tires, wide seats, upright handlebars and sometimes even just a single gear. These are the bikes that you’ll often see at the beach. More simple mechanically, they are easy to maintain but work best with flat terrain and a rider whose main interest is more about being comfortable than with going fast.

Outside the Realm

If after you’ve checked out these styles, still none of these bikes offers you what you need, check out these other kinds of bikes. Tandems, recumbents, and tricycles are all unique types of bikes that you likely won’t see very often, either out on the trail or on the showroom floor at your local bike shop. But each offers specific features and functions that may be just what you are looking for. Read more about these alternatives to the mainstream styles of bicycles.

Smart Shopping for Bikes

Once you’ve figured out the best style of bike for you, it’s time to start shopping. Here are tips to help you out

• Borrow a bike and try it out
  

When you've figured out the right style of bike for you, to make double sure that you're making the right choice, borrow a bike from a friend and try it out. Be sure to go on a ride longer than a lap around the parking lot, too. Twenty minutes should be enough to know if you are comfortable with the way you sit on a particular type of bike, and if the pace is right for you, or if it will be something that ultimately disappoints you.

An example – I thought I’d get a hybrid bike for commuting. I thought that the upright posture and a sturdier frame would be just what I needed.

But just a few minutes on the bike and I could tell that I wasn’t able to go fast enough to suit me, and that I wasn’t going to be happy with that type of bike for the long run.

• Resist the temptation to go cheap.
  

With bikes, like most everything else, you get what you pay for. Chances are you won’t be happy over the long run with a cheapie bike from a big box discounter, even if it was a deal. They are heavy and the components won’t last like they would in a quality model. Ultimately, you’ll be frustrated, and end up spending the money to get that better bike you should have bought in the first place.

• Spend some time at your local bike shop.
  

The people who run your LBS are your best resource on bike buying. These folks are knowledgeable, and can offer tips, advice and service that you can never get over the internet.

A reader wrote about her experience buying from her local shop:

What ended up being the deciding factor [in my choice] was going to the bike shop and talking to the salesman about what I was looking for. I went in thinking I wanted one bike, but after talking with him and describing what I'd be using it for, it turned out I was really after something else. It was a great experience and I ended up with the perfect bike for me.

• Consider buying used

The best way to get a decent bike without forking out a whole bunch of money, particularly if you’re still wondering if you’ll stick with it for a while, is to buy a used bike rather than purchasing one new. And sources abound, from sites like Craigslist to the classified ads in the newspaper to a swap board carried by your local bike shop on its website.

While shopping for a used bike on your own means you won’t have the same input as you get from a knowledgeable salesman at the local bike shop, the opportunity to take the bike for a test ride coupled with a little online research should be enough to tell you about the suitability of your purchase.

So, after you’ve thought thoroughly about they type of riding you’ll be doing, and taken a several different types out for test rides, go get the very best bike you can afford. It’ll be money well spent.

Bike Sizing and Fit - What is the Right Size Bike for Me?

Use the sizing chart below to find the right sized road bike for you. Knowing your height and inseam measurements, you should be able to determine what size frame will be most comfortable for you. Of the two measurements, height and inseam, inseam is more important.

Determining Your Frame Size
Height	Inseam Length	Bike Frame Size
4'10" - 5'1"	25.5” - 27”	46 - 48 cm
5'0" - 5'3"	26.5" - 28"	48 - 50 cm
5'2" - 5'5"	27.5" - 29"	50 - 52 cm
5'4" - 5'7"	28.5" - 30"	52 - 54 cm
5'6" - 5'9"	29.5" - 31"	54 - 56 cm
5'8" - 5'11"	30.5" - 32"	56 - 58 cm
5'10" - 6'1"	31.5" - 33"	58 - 60 cm
6'0" - 6'3"	32.5" - 34"	60 - 62 cm
6'2" - 6'5"	34.5" - 36"	62 - 64 cm

Essential Bike Commuter Gear

Gear You Need to Be Comfortable and Safe on Your Commute

Using your bike to commute to work or school is different than going out for a recreational ride. You need to make sure you'll absolutely get there on time. You have to be prepared for all types of weather. Some of your riding may be in low-light conditions, like early morning and evening and in rush-hour traffic, so you have to be visible to motorists. Here are the items bike commuters need to make sure they stay safe and comfortable on their daily trips.

1. Headlight

View Full-Size (c) NiteRider If you're going to commute regularly, you need a good front light for your bicycle. These should be white with a steady or flashing beam. Particularly if you ride in urban areas, the reason to have a front light is to make you visible to motorists, rather than trying to illuminate your way. Things to consider in assessing headlights: What type of battery does it use? Are the batteries rechargable? How many hours of run time does the light have before draining the batteries? Halogen and LED bulbs are both good choices for delivering strong, bright light. Expect to pay $25 and up for lights that allow you to be seen by drivers; more ($100+) for stronger lights to help you see.

2. Tail Lights

View Full-Size (c) Blackburn Just as important as the white light on the front of your bike is a red one on the back. Most offer several blinking patterns - steady, continuous flash, random, etc., -- to give you and your bike visibility from the rear to approaching motorists and others from a long way off. Most tail lights run on either one or two AA batteries, and last for several hundred hours. These red blinkie lights can either be mounted to your seat post or rack; or else clipped on to your backpack or belt.

3. Reflective Vest or Jacket

View Full-Size (c) David Fiedler Though it may feel just a touch dorky the first time you wear it, you want to get yourself the brightest colored reflective vest or jacket you can find. Your goal is to be as visible to motorists as possible. I've got a Ridge Runner vest by L.L. Bean that is so bright, motorists literally squint and shield their eyes when they look at me. Which is great, because it means that they see me. A bonus is that when you're not riding, you can also wear these vests to direct traffic, go deer hunting or just pick up trash alongside the road.

4. Bike Rack

View Full-Size (c) Topeak Corporation With a rack or basket on your bike, you can tote along the necessities like your lunch, a change of clothes or books and papers for school or work. Racks come in quick-release models that pop onto and off of your seat post in seconds for easy removal, or sturdier permanent mount with support struts that bolt to your frame. These type of racks also allow for panniers or grocery bag holder attachments. There are even suit-bag panniers for hauling your snazziest work duds, wrinkle free.

5. Fenders

View Full-Size (c) Tammy Green/Flickr Don't forget about getting fenders for a bike that you plan to ride in all sorts of weather. Fenders are wheel covers that prevent your wheels from throwing water and road filth all over you as you ride. Usually made of metal or durable plastic, fender sizes are listed in relation to your wheel size, which is printed on the sidewall of your tire. For instance, a common road bike tire is 700x23. That means 700 cm diameter and 23 cm wide. Plenty of fenders are available to fit this, and that spec will be listed in the product description. Fenders are usually quite light and easy to install, and some come equipped with quick release attachments, though I don't really see the need to be constantly taking fenders on and off the bike.

6. Rain Gear

View Full-Size (c) J&G Cyclewear If you ride regularly, you're going to get rained on. It's just a fact of life. The good news is that decent raingear makes riding bearable and even fun when it gets wet out. It's easy to carry along a simple windbreaker that you can bust out when the drops start dripping, but for my taste, a raincape is where it's at. J&W Cyclewear offers a terrific rain cape that tucks neatly in your bag and offers a host of features that make it more comfortable choice than a standard jacket. In just a couple of seconds, you can slip it on over your clothes. The cape keeps the rain off, yet also allows air to circulate from underneath, helping you stay cool. A waist tie and hand grabs keep it in place, and the neck opening adjusts to fit.

7. Basic Bike Tools

View Full-Size (c) Park Tools A basic set of tools will keep you going even if you have minor breakdown along the way. We're not talking here about the full collection that they use down at the bike shop. Really all you need is a multi-tool and a couple of tire levers. You can create this assortment yourself, or pick up something like the Park Essential Bike Tool Kit, which features hex wrenches, tire levers, a patch kit, a straight blade screwdriver and small adjustable wrench, in a small tool wallet.

8. Frame Pump

View Full-Size (c) Blackburn Whether you carry a patch kit or spare tube, if your tire goes flat, you will need to find a way to get air back into it. That's where a nice little pump comes in. Usually clamped to your frame, these mighty little dudes will put enough air in your tire to get you back on your way. Some riders prefer to carry CO2 cartridges - little battery-sized cylinders that deliver a burst of pressurized gas and refill tubes in a fraction of a second. They are lighter, but require a bit of practice to use, else you can blow out the tube you've just replaced. Plus, they cost about a dollar a piece, for what is typically a one time use.

9. Spare Tube

View Full-Size (c) Oskay/Flickr. When riding day in and day out on your commute, by far the most likely problem you'll have with your bike is a flat tire. So bring along another tube specific to your bike. They are fairly compact, easy to change out, and you'll be back riding in no time. Never changed a flat tire? Here are easy instructions on how to change a flat.

The following directions will show you how to fix a flat tire. Don’t let the ten steps fool you; this is a quite simple repair, and all you'll need are tire tools, a replacement tube and a pump.

Tire tools are cheap and light. They're about the size and shape of toothbrush handle, and it's a good idea to carry a couple with you whenever you ride. They're easy to fit in a small pouch under your seat along with a spare tube, and with a frame-mounted pump, you're all set.

The first step is to take the wheel with the flat off your bike. Do this by loosening the nuts or quick release mechanism that holds the wheel until it slides out. You may need to loosen your brakes to get the wheel off.

Bicycle Repair and Tune-Up, a complete, illustrated, online bicycle repair manual including wheel alignment, handlebar grips and tape, flat tire repair, derailleur and brake adjustment, and much more for mountain bikes, road bikes, BMX, and general bicycles. Simply click on your area of interest or you can read it all by clicking START HERE.

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Bicycle Tune-Up Step 7 - Adjust The Rear Derailer

Notice the two small screws on the body of the rear derailer. (Some Suntour models have three screws. Ignore the top one for now.) The high gear limit screw stops the derailer from shifting past high gear (smallest sprocket), and the low gear screw prevents it from going past low gear (largest sprocket). If a limit screw is too loose, the chain will fall off. If too tight, the system will not engage the gear.

Locations of the adjustment screws will vary on different brands, but they all function the same way.

1. Tighten the high gear screw, the one that hits a cam when you shift to the smallest sprocket, until you can no longer shift into high gear. Put the shifter in high gear position and while turning the pedals, unscrew the high gear screw until the system engages high gear again. Shift between high gear and the second smallest several times, backing the screw out a little more, just until the derailer shifts smoothly.

2. Tighten the low gear screw until you no longer get first gear. Repeat the process for this low gear limit - back the screw out just until the bike shifts smoothly from the second largest to the largest sprocket.

3. If you cannot engage high or low gear, or if the above technique does not work for high or low gear, the cable may be improperly adjusted.

Shift into high gear and push the shifter all the way to the end of its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt. That's the bolt with a hole through which the derailer control wire is clamped. Pull the slack out of the wire, and retighten the anchor bolt.

If your bike has index shifting, you'll find an adjusting barrel either at the derailer or the shifter. The adjusting barrel is a hollow screw at which the cable outer housing stops, but which the inner wire continues through. Fine adjust the cable tension by turning the adjusting barrel until the clicks on the shifter correspond with proper shifting at the derailer.

If your bicycle does not engage high gear, or is slow to engage high gear, even though properly adjusted, the cable is probably the culprit. Replace the sticky or rusted cable, and the problem will usually go away.

If you have done everything right, but the bicycle does not shift reliably, the most common reason is that the chain and freewheel are too worn to work properly. If you replace one, you must replace both. A new chain on an old freewheel or visa versa usually skips, and the new part wears out very quickly.

Another possibility is a bent derailer. The guide pulleys, those little wheels that take up the chain slack, must pivot on the same plane as the freewheel sprockets. Derailers become bent when the bike falls over on the right-hand side. Whenever you set a bicycle down, or put it in a car, set it on its left side to protect the derailer. You can sometimes straighten out a bent derailer by simply bending it back and readjusting the limit screws.

Update: A reader brought to my attention that there is a third screw that I need to address. This is the "b" screw or "chain gap adjustment" screw. It is located right where the derailleur attaches to the hanger and actually pushes the derailleur back in order for the derailleur to keep from contacting the cassette. Simply move your chain to the largest gear and then adjust this screw to barely keep the derailleur from coming into contact with the cassette. Simple! (Carl)

Replacing a Cable

The following situations indicate that the cable needs replacing:

1. The rear derailer easily engages low gears (large sprockets) but hesitates to engage the smallest sprocket, or doesn't engage it at all.  This is after the high gear adjustment has been set, as in the above paragraphs. 

2. The shifter is very hard to move.  Make sure that the reason is not just that the shifter friction adjustment has been set too tight.  Some shifters have a large screw or wingnut that can be adjusted.  When too loose, the shifter slips back into high gears when you hit bumps.  When too tight, the shifter is hard to move.

3. If you see broken strands on a cable inner wire, it should be replaced.  A cable with just one broken strand is less than half as strong as one that's intact.

Bicycle Tune-Up Step 8 - Adjust The Front Derailleur

The front derailleur is adjusted like the rear one - the principles are the same. Look closely to find which limit screw does what since their positions vary on different models of front derailleurs.

1. Make sure the front derailleur cage is parallel to and above the largest front sprocket by only about three millimeters (1/8 inch).

2. With the rear derailleur in high (smallest sprocket), tighten the front derailleur high gear screw until you cannot shift into high gear (large front sprocket). Back out the screw while turning the pedals and operating the shifter until you just get a clean shift every time.

3. Repeat this procedure for shifting down to the smallest front sprocket, but with the rear derailleur engaged in low gear.

4. Check all combinations of front and rear gear selection. You may have to compromise the adjustments a little to get a clean shift in all cases.

5. Because the chainwheels (front sprockets) are probably not perfectly flat, try all combinations of shifting when the pedals are at varying angles of rotation.

Sometimes front derailleurs will require a little bending to get proper function. If the chain sometimes falls off even though the adjustment seems correct, try bending the front edge of the derailleur cage in a little bit.

Top view of a front derailleur

If the derailleur is reluctant to engage high or low gear, the cable may need adjustment. Shift toward the largest sprocket, pushing the shifter all the way in its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt, pull the slack out of the cable and retighten.

If that doesn't work, the cable may be sticky or rusted, and should be cleaned or replaced.

If you have done everything right, but the chain still falls off occasionally, or the derailleur is slow to shift, consider the following points:

The chainwheels may be bent. If so, you'll see them waver as you turn the pedals. You can simply bend them back into plane. Do this carefully with a rubber hammer.

One or more teeth of the chainwheels may be bent. You may be able to straighten a bent tooth by grabbing it with an adjustable wrench.

The chain or the chainwheels may be worn out.

The chain or the chainwheels may be of low quality. This is common, and the usual cures are to ignore the problem, or spend money. Keep in mind that to get the performance we do get with bicycles, the engineering is a compromise between reasonable weight, features, and cost. If you want perfection, you've got to pay the price. The price isn't always money. Even if you spent a million dollars for the best bicycle money could buy, you'd still find some aspects of your machine which would be less than satisfactory. Hey, it's either settle, or walk!

Skipping problems are not related to the derailleurs. If your bike has a skip when pedaling hard, check the skip's frequency. If it is once for every revolution of the chain, there is probably a stiff link. Try lubricating and flexing the chain laterally. If the skip is once per each revolution of the front or rear sprockets, look for damage or build up of dirt on the offending sprocket. If the skip frequency is random, the chain and freewheel are probably worn out, requiring replacement for best performance.

Replacing a Cable

The following situations indicate that the cable needs replacing:

1. The front derailleur easily engages high gears (large sprockets) but hesitates to engage the smallest sprocket, or doesn't engage it at all.  This is even after the low gear adjustment has been set, as in the above paragraphs. 

2. The shifter is very hard to move.  Make sure that the reason is not just that the shifter friction adjustment has been set too tight.  Some shifters have a large screw or wingnut that can be adjusted.  When too loose, the shifter slips back into high gears when you hit bumps.  When too tight, the shifter is hard to move.

3. If you see broken strands on a cable inner wire, it should be replaced.  A cable with just one broken strand is less than half as strong as one that's intact.

Step 9 - Finish The Tune-Up

 3 Things You Need To KnowBefore You Buy

Cycling Gear& Parts!

* Check the tire inflation. The proper pressure is molded into the side of the tires. Use the highest recommended pressure for all but a few off-road purposes. Use a known good gauge. The air boxes at gas stations with the crank on the side are often inaccurate. Before adding air to tires, make sure they are seated correctly. If a tire is bulging partly off the rim, you must let most of the air out, reposition the tire, and reinflate it carefully to avoid a blowout.

* Check the tightness of all nuts and bolts that you have not already checked. This includes accessories such as a kickstand, luggage carrier and generator lighting set.

* Carefully test ride to make sure the bicycle is safe.

* Enjoy the satisfaction in knowing you have tuned up the bicycle yourself, and have probably done a better job than many professional tune-ups.